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How to Create Cold Process Soap Recipes

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Creating soap recipes

After a few batches of soap, almost every soap maker will want to try their own recipes. The easiest way to customize a soap recipe is to use different additives, changing the look and smell of the soap. 

Making a soap recipe

If you change the amount of oils in a soap recipe, it is already a completely new recipe. When preparing a soap recipe, it is necessary to know the properties of the fats used and their saponification number (SAP). The saponification number indicates how much lye is needed to completely saponify the fats. The table with saponification numbers is given below.

The best soap recipe combines different fats and oils. The three most commonly used soap fats are coconut oil, palm oil, and olive oil. Coconut oil gives the soap good cleansing properties and foaming, palm fat makes it harder and longer lasting. The function of olive oil is to soften the skin. These properties can also be given to the soap by other fats: babassu and castor oil also make the soap bubble well, with lard you can add strength to it, and instead of olive oil, sunflower and soybean oil can be used as a softener. The widest choice is for moisturizing oils, which can make up 5-10% by weight of the soap.

The rule of thumb is that at least 40% of soap oils should be solid fats, but there are exceptions, such as the recipe for Castilian soap, which uses only olive oil.

Here's a simple example of how to make a soap recipe

1. Choose the soap ingredients and set their proportions:

125 g coconut oil
150 g palm oil
200 g olive oil
25 g avocado oil

2. Determine the saponification number of each ingredient:

coconut oil 0.183

palm oil 0.142

olive oil 0.135

avocado oil 0.133

3. Find the amount of caustic soda needed to saponify each ingredient:

coconut oil 0.183 x 125 g = 22.875 g

palm oil 0.142 x 150 g = 21.3 g

olive oil 0.135 x 200 g = 27 g

avocado oil 0.133 x 25 g = 3.325 g

The required amount of lye is 74.5 grams.

4. Discounting lye

As fully saponified soap is not very moisturizing, the amount of lye must be reduced so that some of the oils remain in the soap in its natural form. My recipes have mostly  5% unsaponified oils. Different recipes contain 5-15% unsaponifiable fat. If the proportion of unsaponifiable fats is very high, problems with the preservation of the soap may occur.

To reduce the amount of lye by 5%, multiply it by 0.95 (95%).

74.5 x 0.95 = 70.775 or 71 grams of lye.

If you want more unsaponified oils, for example, a 10% reduction, the amount of caustic soda should be multiplied by  0.9.

5. Calculating the amount of water

The optimal amount  of water is 38% by weight of fats. With less water, caustic soda is more difficult to dissolve.

500 g x 0.38 = 190 g

Amount of ater can be a bit lower 

Here is the finished recipe:

190 g water

71 g lye

125 g coconut oil

150 g palm oil

200 g olive oil

25 g avocado oil

Online soap calculator

A soap calculator is a good guide when preparing a soap recipe. Here is one I have been using: https://www.soapmakingfriend.com/soap-making-recipe-builder-lye-calculator

SAP values

This table shows how much caustic soda it takes to turn fat into soap.

If you do not find a suitable oil or grease in the table, contact the raw material manufacturer or dealer for information.

Aloe butter

0.179

apricot kernel oil

0.139

avocado oil

0.133

avocado butter

0.133

babassu oil

0.175

emu oil

0.135

chicken fat

0.137

hemp oil

0.138

castor oil

0.128

rosehip seed oil

0.133

coconut oil

0.183

cucumber seed oil

0.135

lamb fat

0.138

linseed oil

0.135

linseed oil

0.135

peanut oil

0.137

sweet almond oil

0.139

corn oil

0.137

macadamia nut oil

0.139

almond butter

0.134

mango butter

0.136

beeswax

0.067

hazelnut oil

0.135

Monoi de Tahiti

0.182

poppy seed oil

0.138

wheat germ oil

0.130

olive oil

0.135

palm kernel oil

0.176

palm oil

0.142

plum seed oil

0.138

olive pomace oil

0.134

sunflower oil

0.135

rapeseed oil

0.124

hazelnut oil

0.139

sesame oil

0.134

shea butter

0.128

soybean oil

0.136

beef fat

0.143

grape seed oil

0.129

 
Posted in: Seebi valmistamine

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Comments

  • Saippuoituminen
    By: Sirpa lindblad On 01/31/2024
    Rating:
    ★★★★★ (5.0)

    Hei...olipa hyvin selitetty nuo asiat ,tässä ne nyt tuli - kun olen englanninkielisistä videoista katsellut...ei aina ole varma olo ymmärsikö oikein...pitääpä lukea muutkin kirjoitukset täältä :)

  • Seebistumisarv searasv
    By: Janika Kull On 10/06/2023
    Rating:
    ★★★★★ (5.0)

    Milline on searastav seebistumisarv? 0,193 või 0,203?

    Replied by: Helen Idarand On 10/06/2023
    Kas toodud numbrid pärinevad wikipeida lehelt https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saponification_value? Sel juhul on nimeatud väärtused mõeldud kaaliumhüdroksiidiga (KOH) kasutamiseks. Seda kasutatakse vedelseebi valmiatamiseks. Searasva seebistumisarv seebikiviga (NaOH) kasutamisel peaks minu andmetel olema 0,138.